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Build a Gazebo
 Before
starting work on the gazebo, please check with your Local
Council Authority to ensure that your plans meet their
Contractors consent requirements (see the ‘Contractors Consent -
What to Do’ Project Guide). |
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Step 1: Site Layout
Establish the position of your gazebo, ensuring that this
conforms to local by-law requirements. Select as level an area
as possible to make a flat sitting space and construction of
the gazebo easier. Drive profile pegs firmly into the ground
to support string lines which must be square to each other
(see Fig 2). Also refer to our project guide on ‘How to Build
a Carport’ which explains the layout concept in greater
detail. Position the corner post pads in a square with centre
lines 3506mm apart, the distance for both diagonals is 4958mm.
The gazebo overhangs the corner post positions by 403mm all
round, see roof plan (Fig 13A). |
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Step 2: Excavation & Site
Preparation
As necessary excavate the area to level the ground to create a
flat site. A sloping site will require more excavation. If
your location is on flat lawn, then there is little need to
excavate the area.
Location of corner post pads - use the same detail for setting
out as described in Step 1. Corner post pad holes are 450mm
square and 300mm deep - you may not need boxing if the ground
is solid.
Mix the concrete using one part cement to six parts builders
mix (or use bagged concrete mix) and pour concrete into corner
post pads. Set and temporarily brace the galvanised post
bracket (Bowmac B16) into the concrete (see Fig 3). Setting
will take 3 to 4 days. The brackets must be aligned to the
centre lines; check that they are all level. |
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Step 3: Assembling Post & Beam
Frames (see Figs 4,5,6 above)
Cut components accurately and according to diagrams to ensure
a good fit when assembling. Lay two 100x100mm posts on the
ground parallel to each other and 3600mm apart measuring to
and from the outside edges (see Fig 2).
Nail one of the 200x50mm beams to the two posts, checking that
it is flush to the top of the posts and that the short face of
the beam is against the posts.
Stand the frame into two of the post brackets and hold in
position with temporary bracing.
Ensure that the beam is on the outside of the vertical posts,
check that the beam is horizontal.
Adjust the posts, as necessary, before bolting firmly into the
vertical position. Drill into the post through the Bowmac B16
bracket, and push in the galvanised M12 bolt to secure post.
Repeat this process to assemble the other end of the gazebo
framing, checking that the height of the beam is level with
the first frame. Nail the 200x50mm connecting beams and the
100x50mm diagonal corner braces into place.
Make sure your temporary bracing is secure and firm so that
the frame does not rack or twist. Remove this bracing when the
project is finished. |
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Step 4: Cutting Timber Roof
Components (See Figs 7-14)
Cut the components accurately to ensure a good fit when
assembling.
The dimensions along the bottom of the roof members are
running dimensions, do not add them together when marking out
prior to cutting.
The dimensions are measured from the bottom left hand corner
of each roof member. The angle of the birdsmouth cuts are all
at 90 degrees.
The plan view is straight down and not perpendicular to the
component.
Stand the frame into two of the post brackets and hold in
position with temporary bracing.
Ensure that the beam is on the outside of the vertical posts,
check that the beam is horizontal.
Adjust the posts, as necessary, before bolting firmly into the
vertical position. Drill into the post through the Bowmac B16
bracket, and push in the galvanised M12 bolt to secure post.
Repeat this process to assemble the other end of the gazebo
framing, checking that the height of the beam is level with
the first frame.
Nail the 200x50mm connecting beams and the 100x50mm diagonal
corner braces into place.
Make sure your temporary bracing is secure and firm so that
the frame does not rack or twist. Remove this bracing when the
project is finished. |
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Step 5: Contractors the Roof
Structure (see Figs 13a-13c)
Working on a flat surface/ground, tack the 200x50mm exterior
rails together, checking for square, level and alignment
before final nailing.
The diagonal distance across the corners is 6364mm each way.
Use 90 x 3.55 galvanised jolt head nails to nail the exterior
rails at each corner.
Nail the 100x50mm centre roof rafters and the 125x50mm hip
roof rafters to the exterior rail. These should be 18mm down
from the top (see Figs 13B, enlarged view).
Tack the free end of the centre rafters and hip rafters
together.
Nail the 150x50mm centre rails into position. The edge should
be flush with the top of the rafters.
The underside of the centre rails should be 884mm, above the
underside of the 200x50mm exterior rail. These again must be
level, (see Figs 13B and 13C).
The 100x50mm jack rafters are then nailed between the exterior
rails and hips.
Nail on the 75x50mm cleats, the raking edge is to be flush
with the top of the rafters. |
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Step 6: Trellis Panels (See
Figs 14-16&13a)
Cut the trellis 1800x1200mm into a 1200x1200mm panel, and nail
over the centre rails (See Fig 14). Using gib clout nails fix
the 40x10mm trellis battens to the edge of the centre rails.
Battens are flush with the edge of the 1200x1200mm trellis and
give a finished look to the gazebo roof.
Four 1800x1200mm trellis panels (see Fig 15) are nailed over
the centre rafters, the edges line up with centre line of the
rafters.
Cut the 1800x900mm trellis panels (see Fig 16), and nail the
larger shapes between the centre rafters and the jack rafters.
The smaller shapes are used between the jack rafter and the
corner.
The 40x10mm battens also overlay the joints and edge trellis
sheets - this serves to create a tidy finish around the roof.
NOTE: The trellis panels can be fixed after the structure is
lifted into place. |
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Step 7: Fixing the Roof
Structure to the Post/Beam Frame
This structure is both large and heavy. You will need lots of
help to lift the structure evenly onto the frames.
Alternatively, use a scaffolding platform to stand on to build
the roof from the erected frame, instead of on the ground.
If lifting into place, check the roof is sitting down on the
beams on all sides.
Skew nail the rafters and hip rafters onto the beams using the
90 x 3.55 galvanised jolt head nails.
Complete the gazebo by painting/staining, ensure that the
paint/stain is compatible with timber treatment by referring
to the paint manufacturers recommendations - alternatively do
not apply a finish and leave the timber to age naturally.
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Step 8: Contractors & Laying the 'Ecoply'
Plywood Floor Panels
The flooring panels are optional - your lawn, providing it is
flat, is a suitable alternative - or you could use a
combination of both.
If using panels, they should be cleaned and stored during the
winter months.
Use 'Ecoply' structural C-D grade 2400x1200x12mm H3 tanalith
exterior treated sheets for flooring panels.
Cut a 94mm square out on one corner of four panels, to
accommodate the corner post pads (see Fig 18).
Then cut the 75x50 No.1 H4 Radiata framing, setting and
arranging this on the ply (see Figs 17&18). Ensure the framing
is flush to the outside of the ply, nail the framing together
using 90 x 3.55mm galvanised jolt head nails.
Turn the framing and ply over, nail the ply onto the framing
with 60x2.8mm galvanised flat head nails at 150mm max. centres.
Complete the nine panels in this manner.
If the site is sloping/undulating, spread and compact the sand
to the required levels. Lay each panel on the sand/lawn,
tack/nail them together to prevent movement. |
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