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Build a Gazebo
Before starting work on the gazebo, please check with your Local Council Authority to ensure that your plans meet their Contractors consent requirements (see the ‘Contractors Consent - What to Do’ Project Guide).  


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Step 1: Site Layout
Establish the position of your gazebo, ensuring that this conforms to local by-law requirements. Select as level an area as possible to make a flat sitting space and construction of the gazebo easier. Drive profile pegs firmly into the ground to support string lines which must be square to each other (see Fig 2). Also refer to our project guide on ‘How to Build a Carport’ which explains the layout concept in greater detail. Position the corner post pads in a square with centre lines 3506mm apart, the distance for both diagonals is 4958mm. The gazebo overhangs the corner post positions by 403mm all round, see roof plan (Fig 13A).  


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Step 2: Excavation & Site Preparation
As necessary excavate the area to level the ground to create a flat site. A sloping site will require more excavation. If your location is on flat lawn, then there is little need to excavate the area.
Location of corner post pads - use the same detail for setting out as described in Step 1. Corner post pad holes are 450mm square and 300mm deep - you may not need boxing if the ground is solid.
Mix the concrete using one part cement to six parts builders mix (or use bagged concrete mix) and pour concrete into corner post pads. Set and temporarily brace the galvanised post bracket (Bowmac B16) into the concrete (see Fig 3). Setting will take 3 to 4 days. The brackets must be aligned to the centre lines; check that they are all level.  


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Step 3: Assembling Post & Beam Frames (see Figs 4,5,6 above)
Cut components accurately and according to diagrams to ensure a good fit when assembling. Lay two 100x100mm posts on the ground parallel to each other and 3600mm apart measuring to and from the outside edges (see Fig 2).
Nail one of the 200x50mm beams to the two posts, checking that it is flush to the top of the posts and that the short face of the beam is against the posts.
Stand the frame into two of the post brackets and hold in position with temporary bracing.
Ensure that the beam is on the outside of the vertical posts, check that the beam is horizontal.
Adjust the posts, as necessary, before bolting firmly into the vertical position. Drill into the post through the Bowmac B16 bracket, and push in the galvanised M12 bolt to secure post. Repeat this process to assemble the other end of the gazebo framing, checking that the height of the beam is level with the first frame. Nail the 200x50mm connecting beams and the 100x50mm diagonal corner braces into place.
Make sure your temporary bracing is secure and firm so that the frame does not rack or twist. Remove this bracing when the project is finished.  


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Step 4: Cutting Timber Roof Components (See Figs 7-14)
Cut the components accurately to ensure a good fit when assembling.
The dimensions along the bottom of the roof members are running dimensions, do not add them together when marking out prior to cutting.
The dimensions are measured from the bottom left hand corner of each roof member. The angle of the birdsmouth cuts are all at 90 degrees.
The plan view is straight down and not perpendicular to the component.
Stand the frame into two of the post brackets and hold in position with temporary bracing.
Ensure that the beam is on the outside of the vertical posts, check that the beam is horizontal.
Adjust the posts, as necessary, before bolting firmly into the vertical position. Drill into the post through the Bowmac B16 bracket, and push in the galvanised M12 bolt to secure post.
Repeat this process to assemble the other end of the gazebo framing, checking that the height of the beam is level with the first frame.
Nail the 200x50mm connecting beams and the 100x50mm diagonal corner braces into place.
Make sure your temporary bracing is secure and firm so that the frame does not rack or twist. Remove this bracing when the project is finished.  


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Step 5: Contractors the Roof Structure (see Figs 13a-13c)
Working on a flat surface/ground, tack the 200x50mm exterior rails together, checking for square, level and alignment before final nailing.
The diagonal distance across the corners is 6364mm each way.
Use 90 x 3.55 galvanised jolt head nails to nail the exterior rails at each corner.
Nail the 100x50mm centre roof rafters and the 125x50mm hip roof rafters to the exterior rail. These should be 18mm down from the top (see Figs 13B, enlarged view).
Tack the free end of the centre rafters and hip rafters together.
Nail the 150x50mm centre rails into position. The edge should be flush with the top of the rafters.
The underside of the centre rails should be 884mm, above the underside of the 200x50mm exterior rail. These again must be level, (see Figs 13B and 13C).
The 100x50mm jack rafters are then nailed between the exterior rails and hips.
Nail on the 75x50mm cleats, the raking edge is to be flush with the top of the rafters.  


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Step 6: Trellis Panels (See Figs 14-16&13a)
Cut the trellis 1800x1200mm into a 1200x1200mm panel, and nail over the centre rails (See Fig 14). Using gib clout nails fix the 40x10mm trellis battens to the edge of the centre rails.
Battens are flush with the edge of the 1200x1200mm trellis and give a finished look to the gazebo roof.
Four 1800x1200mm trellis panels (see Fig 15) are nailed over the centre rafters, the edges line up with centre line of the rafters.
Cut the 1800x900mm trellis panels (see Fig 16), and nail the larger shapes between the centre rafters and the jack rafters. The smaller shapes are used between the jack rafter and the corner.
The 40x10mm battens also overlay the joints and edge trellis sheets - this serves to create a tidy finish around the roof.
NOTE: The trellis panels can be fixed after the structure is lifted into place.  


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Step 7: Fixing the Roof Structure to the Post/Beam Frame
This structure is both large and heavy. You will need lots of help to lift the structure evenly onto the frames.
Alternatively, use a scaffolding platform to stand on to build the roof from the erected frame, instead of on the ground.
If lifting into place, check the roof is sitting down on the beams on all sides.
Skew nail the rafters and hip rafters onto the beams using the 90 x 3.55 galvanised jolt head nails.
Complete the gazebo by painting/staining, ensure that the paint/stain is compatible with timber treatment by referring to the paint manufacturers recommendations - alternatively do not apply a finish and leave the timber to age naturally.  


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Step 8: Contractors & Laying the 'Ecoply' Plywood Floor Panels
The flooring panels are optional - your lawn, providing it is flat, is a suitable alternative - or you could use a combination of both.
If using panels, they should be cleaned and stored during the winter months.
Use 'Ecoply' structural C-D grade 2400x1200x12mm H3 tanalith exterior treated sheets for flooring panels.
Cut a 94mm square out on one corner of four panels, to accommodate the corner post pads (see Fig 18).
Then cut the 75x50 No.1 H4 Radiata framing, setting and arranging this on the ply (see Figs 17&18). Ensure the framing is flush to the outside of the ply, nail the framing together using 90 x 3.55mm galvanised jolt head nails.
Turn the framing and ply over, nail the ply onto the framing with 60x2.8mm galvanised flat head nails at 150mm max. centres. Complete the nine panels in this manner.
If the site is sloping/undulating, spread and compact the sand to the required levels. Lay each panel on the sand/lawn, tack/nail them together to prevent movement.  


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