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Staying On Top of Shingle Repair
Fix-It Tips!
If possible, replace your shingles on a hot day when they are more
pliable and seal better.
Seal minor splits and cracks to shingles with roofing cement. You
can also try to cement down curled shingles-but they will probably
have to be replaced.
The process for installing shingles on mobile homes is exactly the
same as site-built homes. However, on site-built homes, two or three
layers of shingles are acceptable. On a mobile home, one layer is
the limit.
This means, if your shingles need replacing, that's exactly what you
need to do - remove and replace them. You can't solve the problem by
covering them with a second layer of shingles, leave this to your
roofer.
The reason is weight. A square of shingles that only covers 100
square feet, weighs about 240 pounds. Your roof might require nine
or more squares. Mobile home roof trusses aren't built to handle the
weight of a double layer of shingles.
When Shingles Wear Out
Fiberglass and asphalt shingles are durable, water resistant,
roofing materials. Under ideal conditions, some of the higher
quality shingles may last 30 years, but that is optimistic. If your
shingles have been up for 15 or more years, you might need to
re-roof in the not-too-distant future - especially if you live in a
snowbelt or high heat area. In addition, shingles on mobile homes
with low-slope roofs have a tendency to wear out earlier. On a roof
with less pitch, the shingles are more exposed to sun, water and
snow.
Inspect Your Shingles Regularly
It's important to periodically examine your shingles for damage
after you have removed all debris. Check them every spring and fall,
and after a hailstorm or high winds. Promptly replace any cracked,
curled-up, broken or missing shingles. If you don't, rain water
could seep under the sheathing and leak into your sidewalls or
ceiling.
Examine the roof up close from a ladder. Particularly check the roof
ridge and valleys for cracked shingles, and the bottom and side rows
for curled back or broken shingles.
Replacing a damaged shingle is a relatively easy repair.
What You'll Need to Replace Shingles
Materials:
replacement shingles
roofing nails
roofing cement
Tools:
hammer
utility knife
long knife
small piece of plywood.
STEP 1: Cut through sealer strips
If installed properly, each shingle should have eight nails holding
it in place: four in the middle, about ½ inch above the tab cutouts
(these four nails also go through the top of the shingle below), and
four along the top (these four nails are pounded through the middle
of the shingle above). See the diagram that shows how shingles are
installed.
To replace one shingle, you need to loosen at least three shingles:
the one being replaced and the two shingles on the two rows above
the damaged shingle. You will need to cut through the sealer strip
(also called "adhesive line") on these shingles. The sealer strip is
a dashed line of asphalt adhesive that runs across the middle of the
shingle. To loosen, slide a long knife, putty knife or small crowbar
under the damaged shingle. The tool must reach over halfway up the
shingle. Slide it along the entire length of the shingle. Repeat
this procedure for the shingles on the two rows above the damaged
shingle.
STEP 2: Remove nails along middle of damaged shingle
You do not want to crack or split the shingles above or below the
damaged shingle. Carefully slide a pry bar under the damaged
shingle. You might want to slide a piece of plywood under the pry
bar to protect the shingle underneath. Gently pry up the damaged
shingle, being careful not to damage the shingles above. You do not
need to pry the damaged shingle up very far-just enough to loosen
the four middle nails.
Remove the pry bar and plywood. Carefully lift up the tabs on the
shingle above the damaged shingle. Work the nails (in the middle of
the damaged shingle) back and forth with your fingers until you can
remove them.
STEP 3: Repeat procedure on next level
Remove the four nails holding down the top of the damaged shingle.
Because these nails are also holding down the middle of the shingle
just above, you will need to gently pry up this shingle to loosen
nails.
Carefully slide the pry bar under the shingle just above the damaged
shingle. Repeat the previous procedure to loosen nails. You do not
need to remove these nails. Loosen them just enough so they no
longer go through the damaged shingle.
STEP 4: Remove shingle
Slide out the damaged shingle. Use it to size the replacement
shingle (if it is not full width.)
STEP 5: Replace shingle
Make sure the replacement shingle is the same size as the old
shingle. If not, use a utility knife to cut to fit. Slide new
shingle into place, and set flush with adjacent shingles. It should
fit snugly.
STEP 6: Nail
Attach shingle with roofing nails. To prevent leaks, pound nails in
already existing holes. If this is not possible, seal the existing
nail holes in the shingles with roofing cement.
You will probably need to pound in the nails after you have laid all
the shingles flat. This means you will have to hit the nails through
the shingle immediately above. To prevent damaging the shingles,
place a board on top of the shingle and hit the hammer on the board.
STEP 7: Cement
Cover all the nails with roofing cement. Press the upper shingles on
top of the cement to seal. You may need to weight it down overnight.
Or just call NYC Roofers.
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